New Zealand for the Holidays

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Genovesa (Tower) Island.

We cross the equator overnight, arriving at Genovesa Island. Entering Darwin Bay, formed by the caldera of a partially eroded volcano, we disembark and set out on a trail from the coral beach. Passing by swallow-tailed and lava gulls, we enter a forest of salt bush where colonies of great frigatebirds and red-footed boobies nest. Afterward, we swim and snorkel along the cliffs of this colossal harbor, where we encounter an array of fish species and, with luck, get a look at the elusive scalloped hammerhead shark. Because of the influence of northern currents, we find the warmest of all Galápagos waters off this island. A short Zodiac tour along the coastline takes us to Prince Philip’s Steps, where we may find red-footed boobies nesting in palo santo trees. Nazca boobies nest on the ground, along with storm petrels and short-eared owls, one of the archipelago’s few predators. Keep a lookout for fur seals along the shore.

Runde.

The island of Runde has a mere 160 human inhabitants, but it is home to more than half a million seabirds representing more than 230 different species—puffins, kittiwakes, gannets, fulmars, storm petrels, razorbills, shags, and guillemots. From our Zodiacs we look for seals lolling on some of the smaller offshore islands. This afternoon we sail the western coast of Norway, weaving among the dramatic fjords with their verdant slopes and towering cliffs.